How to pack for a family holiday in North Wales


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My husband’s late stepfather bought a small but perfectly formed cottage in Snowdonia decades ago. Its windows look down the valley from Blaenau Ffestiniog towards Harlech on one side and the colourful curiosity that is the Italianate folly of Portmeirion on the other. My family all loves going there. Castle cruising is an almost daily activity for me, my husband and three children (7, 5 and 2) – Harlech, Criccieth,  Beaumaris, Caernarfon, and Conwy are old friends; Chirk is on the list for this trip. We also have several favourite coves on the Llŷn peninsula for days of paddling, jumping along the rock pools and making sandcastles. And obviously, with the spectacular mountain topography, there’s walking – I haven’t quite got the kids up Snowdon yet, but let’s just say they are in training. 

Welsh Falchion Sword and Pembroke Dragon Shield

Welsh Falchion Sword, £8.99, and Pembroke Dragon Shield, £16, theknightshop.com
Welsh Falchion Sword, £8.99, and Pembroke Dragon Shield, £16, theknightshop.com

No trip to a castle is complete without three sets of wooden swords and shields. Good binding, strong wood, lightweight and sturdy is key. Two have Welsh dragons, one has an English cross. For obvious reasons. Welsh Falchion Sword, £8.99, theknightshop.com; Pembroke Dragon Shield, £16, theknightshop.com  


Solar Buddies sunscreen applicators

Solar Buddies sunscreen applicators, £18.98 for three
Solar Buddies sunscreen applicators, £18.98 for three

I hate gadgets for gadgets’ sake and at first I was utterly scathing about these kids’ sunscreen applicators, but by god have I changed my tune. Pour 100ml of sunscreen in, and it is diffused through a soft circular sponge – so my kids can put it on themselves. It does indeed fulfill its promise of being mess-free and easy to use. My children each have a different colour and love using them. Win win. Triple set, £18.98, solarbuddies.co.uk


Meadows Rowan cardigan

Meadows Rowan cardigan, £210
Meadows Rowan cardigan, £210

I always take one good jumper for chilly nights and post-swim cosiness. I love the drop shoulder and balloon sleeves on a swath of the cable knitwear from Meadows. My sold-out jumper is actually a sort of cinnamon brown, but I also like this olive cardigan, which is still available. £210, meadows-store.com 


Hamam Towels

Cologne and Cotton classic Hamam towels, £32
Cologne and Cotton classic Hamam towels, £32

When getting to a beach is likely to involve a steep walk down cliffs, or a long walk through grassy sand dunes, the only way to carry towels for five – plus an ungodly amount of other gubbins – is by having thin, lightweight cotton Hamam ones. Again, everyone has a different colour – plus there’s an extra large one that doubles up as the mothership picnic blanket. Similar from Cologne and Cotton, £32, cologneandcotton.com 


Cubitts sighted sunglasses

Cubitts sighted sunglasses, £150
Cubitts sighted sunglasses, £150

I’ve never found suntan lotion, sea salt, sand and contact lenses the happiest of summer pals and these sighted sunglasses avoid all that. I feel like I’m turning into my mother, but I’m basically OK with that. I have them in tortoiseshell, but I’d like them in yellow. £150 including prescription lenses, cubitts.com 

The author swims at Cwm Idwal in Snowdonia, Wales
The author swims at Cwm Idwal in Snowdonia, Wales

Barbour Wax Storm Hood

Barbour Wax Storm Hood, £37.95
Barbour Wax Storm Hood, £37.95

Because it’s Wales in summer. I love my beaten-up old Barbour, but I’d love it even more if it had a hood. This attaches with poppers at the collar. £37.95, barbour.com


Marking Time by Elizabeth Jane Howard

Marking Time by Elizabeth Jane Howard, £10
Marking Time by Elizabeth Jane Howard, £10

Earlier this year I finally read (after too many recommendations to count) The Light Years, the first of the Cazalet Chronicles. It’s about a sprawling, multigenerational aristo family in Sussex in 1937-8 in blissful denial about the seismic cultural, social, and political shifts taking place all around them – not least stirred up by the impending outbreak of the second world war. Everything everyone told me was right. Can’t wait to escape into the second instalment. £10, uk.bookshop.org


Anya Hindmarch Logo Lotions and Potions Pouch

Anya Hindmarch Logo Lotions and Potions Pouch, £195
Anya Hindmarch Logo Lotions and Potions Pouch, £195

I was given this by my cousin a million years ago; it’s so hardy it still looks new. The contents are whittled down to: Westman Atelier Skin Activator (£138 for 20ml) – absolutely the best thing I’ve found to put on my face first thing in the morning. Plus the brand’s Liquid Super Loaded in Peau de Soleil (£53), which gives a sun-kissed sheen to cheeks that likely won’t see the actual sun. Lesse Every Tone SPF 30 (£85 for 60ml): a cult suncream for good reason, and Artah Enhanced Nootropics Supplements (£36) – because who doesn’t need stress relief and a cognitive boost on a family holiday (!). And Tweezerman Tweezers (£23), for ticks. £195, anyahindmarch.com



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